Combined sewing and ironing mechanism



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V/croe d S/GFODA 5 6 A frog/var United States Patent US. C]. 38-10 48Claims ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE Ironing mechanism for useindependently or with a sewing machine in which the ironing members areretractable pods which engage a moving, thin, heat transfer belt, and afloating buck. The buck has a moving internal belt in contact with thefabric and which is driven in unison with the heat transfer belt bypressure exerting,

driven rollers. Transversely shiftable and swivellable inserts mountedin the buck are adapted to compensate for fabric irregularities. Thebuck also has an internal lip which limits transverse shifting of theinserts in one direction. The mechanism also includes a prepuller havingmagnetically coupled feed discs, and a post puller which stretches thefreshly ironed fabric as a cooling air blast sets the fabric. Steamapplied to the fabric is supplied from a circulating system havingcondensation reducing features, and a steam heated radiator preheats thetransfer belt.

This application is a continuation-in-part of parent application Ser.No. 481,522 filed Aug. 23, 1965, now patent No. 3,372,497 issued Mar.12, 1968. That application concerns improvements in seam ironingmechanisms capable of use independently of, but preferably with, sewingmachines to produce pressed open sewn seams such as are found in mensand womens trousers and slacks, skirts, and sleeve jackets. Theimprovements herein reside both in the cooperation of the ironingmechanism with the sewing machine and in the ironing mechanism.

The prior art is typically shown in United States Patents 1,683,412 and1,702,271. A more recent apparatus is shown in the patent to Korioth,No. 3,246,616 of Apr. 19, 1966. The earlier patents employ long bucks aspart of the ironing mechanism which is the arrangement utilized in thisand in the parent case, but the Korioth mechanism uses heated opposedrollers. The primary distinguishing feature of applicants improvementsis the use of a floating long buck which is neither anchored at the rearas in the mentioned patents, or at the front as shown in other art. Thisarrangement makes possible continuous sewing and ironing of long tubulargarment sections such as trousers legs and jacket sleeves without havingto stop to swing the buck aside to remove each garment section afterironing is completed. In the arrangement disclosed herein, the use ofthe long floating buck makes is possible to pull the sewn togetherfabric plies transversely during ironing so that the joined plies emergein true butt relationship without overlap, and without the pressuremarks which often accompany roller pressing of superposed plies.

Features and other advantages of the apparatus disclosed herein willbecome apparent from the following detailed description and thedrawings, in which:

FIG. 1 is a side elevational view of the sewing machine and the ironingmechanism in tandem arrangement as they appear when operating incombination; showing a version of the ironing mechanism which is mountedso 3,478,451 Patented Nov. 18, 1969 that it inclines upwardly away fromthe sewing machine;

FIG. 2 is a front elevational view corresponding to FIG. 1 showing thepreheating arrangement for the heat transfer belt; and belts whichconvey the unpressed portion of the garment section;

' FIG. 3 is a perspective side view of the ironing mechanism showingadditional belts which assist in conveying the garment section duringironing, and the post pulling members;

FIG. 4 is a perspective view of the inlet portion of the ironingmechanism without the main horizontal conveying belts, showing the upperand lower front feed pulleys and the magnetically retained rollersdriven thereby; and also showing the free ply edges separator and itssupport members; the heat transfer belt and its preheating radiator; thesteam supply solenoid valve and the adjustable valve for regulating theamount of steam supplied to the steam nozzle;

FIG. 5 is a plan view showing the inlet portion of the ironingmechanism; the relative positioning of the steam nozzle with respect tothe separator, metal heat transfer belt, and the buck (the showing ofthe buck being merely representational, and the spacing between theadjacent edges of the separator and buck being exaggerated); and alsoshowing structural details of the arrangement for preheating the metalbelt;

FIG. 6 is a sectional view taken on line 66 of FIG. 4 showing thestructure of the adjusting means by which downward pressure applied atthe inlet portion of the ironing mechanism by the upper conveying beltcan be counteracted to reduce the effectiveness of feeding by the beltin that area;

FIG. 7 is a perspective view of the inlet portion of the ironingmechanism with the upper and lower front feed pulleys and theircompanion magnetically retained rollers removed; showing the inputportions of the buck and separator from another angle and slightlydisplaced vertically from their normal in line arrangement forvisibility; and also showing the structure of the support and tensioningmembers for the separator;

FIG. 8 is a detail view in perspective of the separator as it appearswhen removed from the ironing mechanism;

FIG. 9 is a view partly in section showing the structure of the upperfront drive pulley and its companion magnetically retained roller; andalso showing the manner in which they cooperate to draw the sewn garmentsection from the sewing machine to the inlet portions of the buck andseparator as the garment section travels to the ironing members;

FIG. 10 is a sectional view of fragments of the upper front feed pulleyand its companion magnetically retained roller showing in exaggeratedscale the taper on a portion of the perimeter of the roller;

FIG. 11 is a view in perspective of the free ply edges separator and itssupport members showing the compensating structure which permitslongitudinal as well as lateral rocking movements of the separtor forthe purpose of accommodating differences in bulk in the seam about to beironed;

FIG. 12 is a representational view of the steam supply system indicatingthe circulating arrangement for the steam and the manner in which watercondensed from the steam drains from the system; and also showing therelationship of the rear wall of the separator and the outlet of thesteam supply nozzle as they cooperate to deflect from the fabric anydrops of water condensing from the steam as it is applied to the fabricjust before the beginning of the ironing operation;

FIG. 13 is a view of an intermediate portion of the ironing mechanismshowing the rear portion of the buck :and two of the lower drive rollerswhich draw the fabric of the garment section wrapped about the buck,along the buck for ironing, and which rollers also rotate the smallerbelt operating rollers in the two buck inserts shown to drive the buckinternal belt; and also showing the upper and lower horizontal drivebelt tensioning and lint scraping and lateral confining mechanisms, andthe stop rollers in the buck and how they cooperate with the drivepulleys to limit rearward movement of the buck;

FIG. 14 is a perspective view showing the structure of some of themechanisms illustrated in FIG. 13 in greater detail;

FIG. 15 is a plan view of the outlet end of the ironing mechanismshowing the post pulling horizontal and vertical belts which pull thefreshly ironed fabric taut just after it leaves the ironing members; andindicating one location for the air nozzle from which a chilling blastis applied to set the taut fabric to reduce the possibility o subsequentwrinkling;

FIG. 16 is an elevational view of the outlet end of the ironingmechanism showing the structure of the drive mechanism for the verticalpost puller; the stop member which limits inward swing of the supportarrangement for the vertical pulling belt; and also showing theyieldable arrangement which urges the vertical pulling belt toward therear roller of the buck;

FIG. 17 is a sectional view taken on line 1717 of FIG. 4 representativeof the early stages of the separation of the sewn garment section as itpasses over the inlet portion of the buck and of the initial separationof the free ply edges by the inlet portion of the separator as thegarment plies are being drawn along such inlet portions by coaction ofthe upper and lower feed belts wrapped around the front set of pulleys,and by their companion magnetically retained upper and lower rollersrespectively;

FIG. 18 is a sectional view taken on line 1818 of FIG. 7 showing a laterstage of separation of the garment plies and of the free ply edges;

FIG. 19 is a sectional view taken on line 1919 of FIG. 7 at a stilllater stage;

FIG. 20 is a sectional view showing the free ply edges fully separatedand folded back in opposed relationship, the buck with the fabric of thegarment section wrapped about it, and the upper and lower large driverollers bearing against the outer surface of the fabric and in contactthrough the fabric with the large roller of one of the buck inserts fordriving the internal buck belt; and also show ing one of the series ofsmall pressure rollers of the buck inserts which maintain the outer runof the internal belt in ironing contact with the fabric of the garmentsection, and through the fabric, urged toward the metal heat transferbelt and the heat pod; and also showing the lip or projection whichextends longitudinally in the buck, in its normal spaced relationshipwith a portion of an insert which can shift the buck frame laterally bycoming into contact therewith;

FIG. 21 is a detail view of a fragment of one type of ironed seam withthe free edges folded in opposed relation as it appears after emergingfrom the apparatus,

FIG. 21a is a similar view of another type of scam;

FIG. 22 is a perspective view of the buck as it appears removed from theironing mechanism, a repetitive portion having been omitted between thebroken lines; showing the manner in which the internal belt passesaround the pressure rollers and is engaged by the large drive roller ofeach insert to be driven thereby;

FIG. 23 is a plan view of the outlet portion of the buck without theinternal belt; showing the rearmost insert installed; and also showingthe slack takeup arrangement for the internal belt, the two concavelysurfaced stop rollers, and the rear roller which is engaged by thevertical pulling belt of the post puller;

FIG. 24 is an enlarged plan view showing one of the buck inserts withthe six idler pressure rollers supported thereon and the laterallyextending projections which form the recesses in which the inserts areretained and which limit longitudinal movement of the insert withoutinterfering with its rotational and transverse movements;

FIG. 25 is a detail view of another portion of the buck (in invertedrelationship), showing the concavely surfaced stop rollers andindicating how they cooperate with the drive pulleys to restrainrearward movement;

FIG. 26 is a perspective view showing one of the four inserts as itappears removed from the buck;

FIG. 27 is a sectional view taken on line 27-27 of FIG. 13 showing oneof the stop rollers and its cooperating drive pulley and how theirrespective concave and convex peripheries coact through the conveyingbelt and fabric when restraining rearward movement of the buck;

FIG. 28 is a sectional view of the buck structure showing the lipengaged with the insert to shift the buck frame in the direction of thearrow; and also showing the cross section of the buck belt and itslongitudinally extending side projections and how they encompass theroller to prevent lateral displacement of the belt as it moves;

FIG. 29 is an exploded view of the front portion of the buck showingdetails of construction and assembly;

FIG. 30 is a detail view of the bridging member which guides the sewngarment section emerging from the sewing machine onto the inlet portionsof the buck and separator;

FIG. 31 is a sectional view taken on line 31-31 of FIG. 30 indicatingthe overlapping sandwich arrangement of the outlet portions of thebridging member and the inlet portions of the buck and separator;

FIG. 32 is an elevational view showing the variable speed transmissionmeans which can be selectively actuated by the operator to suspend orreduce operating speed of the ironing mechanism without affecting theoperating speed of the sewing machine;

FIG. 33 is a view in plan of the mechanism shown in FIG. 32;

FIG. 34 is a representational view of the common drive means for thesewing machine and ironing mechanism;

FIG. 35 is a sectional view taken on line 35-35 of FIG. 3 showingstructural details of the support for the vertical pulling belt of thepost puller;

FIG, 36 is a sectional view taken on line 3636 of FIG. 15 showingdetails of the driving arrangement for the lower horizontal belts of thepost puller; and

FIG. 37 is a schematic representation of a modification of thearrangement shown in FIG. 21 of the parent case now Patent No. 3,372,497for engaging one or more of the heat pods in proportion to the velocityof the garment section through the ironing mechanism.

In the following description, members and portions of the ironingmechanism and the sewing machine of this application which are similarto members and portions of the apparatus of the parent case have beenrelated thereto wherever applicable, by use of the same or similarnumbering.

General organization and operation Referring to the drawings, FIG. 1shows an ironing mechanism of the same general construction as thatdisclosed in the parent case combined with a typical industrial sewingmachine 1 mounted in a conventional sewing table 2 which is providedwith the usual sewing machine drive source 149a (FIG. 34) consisting ofa combined motor and clutch assembly known in the trade as atransmitter. There is an operating connection including variable speedtransmission 162 between the sewing machine and the ironing mechanism bymeans of which the ironing mechanism normally operates whenever thesewing machine is operated.

The sewing machine shown is representative of any conventional singleseam lock or two thread chain stitcher used for joining two fabric pliestogether as for example in stitching the leg portion of mens trousers.The combination of sewing machine and ironing mechanism is notrestricted to that type of sewing machine but could also be used withother sewing machines such as for example the type shown in US. Patents3,192,887 and 3,246,620, which simultaneously produce three lines ofstitching, one being the same as that produced by the single seamermentioned and the other two being separate and independent overcastingsof each of the free ply edges. The sewing machine could also beassociated with an edge pinker to finish the free ply edges withpinking.

The sewn garment section emerging from the sewing machine of whatevertype, passes over the bridging arrangement indicated in FIG. 2 and shownin detail in FIGS. 30 and 31, to leadon member 186 of the buck 185 andleadon portion 236 of the separator on the way, as indicated in FIG. 9,to being ironed between moving metal belt 175 and moving buck belt 198as shown in FIG. 20. It will be noted that the pressure applied duringironing is concentrated in the relatively narrow cross dimension of theouter surface of belt 198 rather than the cross dimension of the buckitself.

When the fabric of the garment section reaches the leadon member andportion, it is initially engaged by sets of upper and lower opposed feedmembers as indicated in FIG. 9 until the fabric is brought into fullengagement with the upper and lower horizontally operating conveyingbelts shown in FIGS. 1, 2 and 3, and elsewheres. The portions of thefabric of the garment section which become wrapped about the buck arealso drawn in one vertical plane between metal belt 175 and the buckbelt 198 as indicated in FIG. ZO and in another substantially verticalplane by engagement of two opposed upper and lower series of large driverollers 141 to 148, indicated in FIG. 3 and elseweres.

As the fabric section passes over the leadon member and portion, thecontoured surface of separator 235 causes the free ply edges to foldback upon the fabric as shown in FIGS. 17 to 20, and just prior to thepoint at which the fabric meets metal belt 175, as indicated in FIG. 5,a jet of steam is directed at the fabric. As the fabric of the garmentsection wrapped about the buck is drawn by the various conveying beltswith the surfaces to be ironed clamped between belts 175 and 198, heatis applied to the metal belt by heat pods 205 and 220. As explained inthe parent case, the heat pods are brought into engagement with themetal belt only when certain predetermined operating speeds of theconveying members are reached. In this case, the operating speed of thesewing machine is transmitted through variable speed transmission 162.

However, by means of the mechanism shown in FIGS. 32 and 33, it ispossible to continue operation of the sewing machine while eitherreducing the speed of or suspending operation of the conveying membersof the ironing mechanism. This permits production of slack in the fabricbetween the ironing members and the sewing machine which allows certaintypes of curved portions of the garment section to be sewn despite theclamping effect of the conveying members of the ironing mechanism.

Since engagement of the heat pods with the moving metal belt isdependent upon the operating speed of the conveying members, wheneverthe operator actuates the mechanism to either reduce speed or suspendoperation of the conveying members, the heat pods are withdrawn. Thisprevents burning or scorching of the fabric at such times.

The fabric of the garment section leaving the conveying members whichdraw it between the ironing members is engaged by other sets of verticaland horizontal post pulling members which operate at a somewhat fasterrate than the first sets of conveying members. The difference in speedcauses tightening of the freshly ironed fabric. Just before the fabricemerges from the first sets of conveying members, a blast of cold air isdirected at the still warm, taut fabric to set it.

In the version of the ironing mechanism shown in FIG. 1, it is inclinedupwardly away from the sewing machine. The outlet of the sewing machinebeing usually about thirty inches above floor level, this places theoutlet of the ironing mechanism approximately forty inches above floorlevel. This arrangement provides a number of significant advantagesamong which is the fact that with the outlet raised in this manner, theentire combination of sewing machine and ironing mechanism occupies lessfloor space. It also permits a commercially available stacker to bepositioned at the outlet of the ironing mechanism, using less floorspace than with the horizontal arrangement of the ironing mechanismshown in the parent case.

Another advantage is that instead of a stacker, a simple slide can beinstalled at the outlet of the ironing mechanism, and because of itsheight, the garment can be returned for subsequent operations, at thelevel of the sewing machine, either to the same operator, or in thestraight line production system to another operator.

A less obvious but more significant advantage is utilization of gravityto offset some of the drag produced by the conveyor belts and driverollers which engage the fabric of the garment section wrapped about thebuck. The drag tends to draw the floating buck with the moving fabricwrapped around it. As explained in the parent case, such rearwardmovement is restrained by engagement of belt drive pulleys mounted onthe main frame of the apparatus with stop rollers in the buck. The dragis sufficient however to cause the stop rollers in the buck to bearagainst the fabric of the garment section passing between the stopmembers with enough pressure to pinch the fabric which produces markingof some materials. Inclination of the entire ironing apparatus appliesgravity to the buck so that the effect of the drag is partially offsetand reduced, and this tends to eliminate pinching and consequentmarking. Gravity also causes the buck to slide downwardly toward-thesewing machine Whenever movement of the conveying belts is suspended orwhen the fabric passes off the buck.

To facilitate use of the stacker, a photoelectrically operated sensormay be used to determine where one garment section ends and anotherbegins and this determination may be utilized to actuate a cutting shearto part the entwined threads between garment sections, and to alsooperate the stacker.

The bridging arrangement As seen in FIGS. 2 and 30 bridging member 238is mounted on the bed of the sewing machine surrounding the needle, theneedle hole being indicated at N. As shown in FIG. 31, this memberconsists principally of two superposed, thin layers 238a and 238]) offlexible metal such as nickel silver or stainless steel. The layers arejoined together by soldering, brazing or welding except in the portionsshown in the sectional view of FIG. 31. Pads 240 are provided on theunderside of member 238 as indicated in FIG. 30 so that when mounted onthe machine bed as shown in FIG. 2, clearance is provided for passage ofone or more fabric plies under layer 238b.

The layers are cut out as shown in FIG. 30 to leave a wire-like,longitudinally extending bridge 241 which assists in separating theplies after they are sewn together. This bridge is positioned adjacentthe needle path when member 238 is installed as indicated in FIG. 30,with the bridge centered in a mating groove in the sole of the presserfoot (not shown). The outlet ends of layers 238a and 238b are separatedto permit passage between them of the stitching formed in the plies bythe sewing instrumentalities.

Under layer 238b is somewhat longer than the upper layer and somewhatthicker since it is desirable to have the upper layer more flexible thanthe lower layer so that when the sewing'machine is turned bodilybackwards as for threading or servicing, layer 238a may flex withoutbeing damaged. Because layer 238a is somewhat shorter, leadon member 186of the buck and portion 236 of the separator may be easily interleavedbetween the free ends of the layers.

The layers overlap member 186 and portion 236 in the direction ofpassage of the garment section from the sewing machine to the ironingmechanism. Passage of the sewn together plies over and under the layerstends to compress them into a tight sandwich with member 186 and portion236 interleaved, to form a continuous bridge extending from the outletof the sewing machine to the inlet of the ironing mechanism.

This interleaved arrangement permits the buck to shift longitudinally ineither direction without breaking the bridge. Layers 238a and 238b arelong enough so that when the drag draws the buck rearwardly, the bridgeis not disrupted. Shifting in the opposite direction when bumps passbetween the stop members of the buck and main frame, or when theconveying members cease operation, merely causes buck leadon member 186to move further downwardly between the layers.

The arrangement makes it convenient to remove the sewing head from thecombination apparatus for replacement by another without requiringremoval of, or damaging the bridging member.

Separation of the fabric plies As the stitched plies pass over thebridging member they automatically pass onto the leadon member andportion (see FIG. 9) with the free ply edges disposed about portion 236and the part of the garment section which will subsequently be wrappedabout the body of the buck disposed about member 186. Member 186 andportion 236 are of relatively thin cross section so that very littleseparation of the plies takes place initially. In order to retaincontrol of the garment section during the interval between leaving thesewing machine and entry between the ironing members, it is desirable tomaintain the plies in this relatively unopened state until they approachthe position at which metal belt 175 and internal belt 198 can clamp thefabric between them.

Innner edges 186a and 23611 of the leadon member and portion arepositioned closely together so that each edge can butt against its sideof the line of stitching within the sewn plies (see FIGS. 9 and 17).This positioning, together with clamping pressure applied to the sewnportion as well as to the free ply edges by tires 331 and 332 on theperipheries of magnetically driven rollers 333 and 334 effectivelyrestrains the sewn together plies from wandering as they travel towardthe body of the buck and keeps the stitchline between the free ply edgesaligned with the centerline of belt 198.

As the sewn together plies move further rearwardly, the free ply edgespass along the contoured inner surface 237a of the separator and spreadapart as shown in FIG. 18 in which it will be noted that edges 186a and236a are maintained in the desired close proximity and alignment whichprevent wandering during ironing. As indicated in FIG.

19, the free ply edges will be almost fully turned back by contouredsurface 23711 as the rearwardly travelling fabric first reaches belt 198and just slightly before it meets metal belt 175. FIG. 20 shows thefully opened free ply edges clamped between the belts.

The separator Referring to FIG. 8, separator 235 has a thin forwardlyextending leadon portion 236 and a vertically tapering, rearwardlyexpanding section 237. The inner edge of portion 236 is designated 236aand the portion by which the separator is supported is designated 236b.Portion 236 adjoins a tapering, contoured surface 237a on the inner wallof section 237. This contoured section is shaped to progressively foldback the free ply edges of the fabric of the garment section as ittravels rearwardly along portion 236, and is generally similar to thatindicated in FIGS. 11, 12 and 16 of the parent case, except that rearsection 237 has a much larger vertical dimension than the correspondingsection of the separator of the parent case.

Section 237 is relatively wide so that its outer surface 237b may act asa deflector to direct droplets of moisture condensing from the steamaway from the fabric of the garment section as indicated in FIG, 12.Although as shown this surface is flat, in practice, it has a slightdownwardly inclined contour which assists in deflecting the droplets.

In FIG. 5, it will be seen that the outlet of steam nozzle 255 isdirected toward the area of the ironing mechanism at which section 237converges with metal belt and buck 185. Steam emerging from the nozzleis first directed at section 237 to deflect the moisture and thenthrough the narrow vertical separation between the end of the separatorand belt 175. This will be described more fully in connection withapplication of steam prior to ironing.

Support arrangement for the separator Referring to FIGS. 7 and 11, yokedbracket 370 mounted on the main frame of the apparatus, supports shaft371 between arms 370a and 37017 which are provided with journals whichpermit shaft 371 to move axially forwardly and rearwardly and also, torock about its axis, in the directions indicated by the arrows. Stopcollars 372 fixed at either end of shaft 371 limit the extent oflongitudinal movement. Arm 373 clamped to shaft 371 carries supportbracket 374 which has a top surface 375 on which separator 235 ismounted. Eyebolt 376 is secured to arm 373.

Shaft 29 which extends between main plates 10 and 11 has an extension29a which supports tie-plate 27 (see FIG. 1). Arm 377 has a long hub 378by which it mounts on shaft portion 29a for slidable movement axiallyalong the shaft. Eyebolt 379 is attached to the free end of arm 377 andspring 380 is anchored between the eyes of eyebolts 376 and 379. Tensionadjusting screw 381 rotatably anchored in plate 27 (see FIG. 1) isthreaded into arm 377 (see FIG. 7). Turning screw 381 so that it drawsarm 377 toward plate 27 increases the tension exerted by spring 380 tooppose transverse rotational movement of arm 373 and shaft 371, andaccordingly also of separator 235. The tension is initially adjusted sothat the separator is urged toward leadon portion 186 and to resistdisplacement therefrom.

Any bump or bulkiness occurring in the seam will shift the separator tothe right until passage of the bump. Tension exerted by spring 380 willthen return the separator to the initial position. Such bulkiness in theseam may also shift the entire buck to the left. It will subsequently beexplained how the buck is caused to return bodily by coaction of itsinternal lip with the buck inserts. Such lateral displacement of thebuck may not be overcome quickly enough by the action of the buckinserts on the lip to maintain the desired close spacing between edges186a and 236a to retain alignment of the stitching with the center lineof belt 198. In such instances, spring 380 will bring about immediateshifting of the separator so that it will follow lateral excursions ofthe buck.

Since shaft 371 is also free to move axially, the drag on the fabricpreviously mentioned also causes the separator to shift toward the rearof the apparatus, but whenever a bump passes between the stop members ofthe buck and main frame at the rear of the apparatus, the separator canmove forwardly in unison with similar movement of the buck toaccommodate passage of the bump.

Since leadon portion 236 of the separator is interleaved betweenoverlapping layers 238a and 238k of the bridging member, suchcompensating movements of the separator will not disrupt connection withthe outlet of the sewing machine.

The conveying mechanisms As in the parent case, feeding of the garmentsection through the ironing mechanism is accomplished in part bycoaction of horizontal upper belt 52 and lower belt 26 (see FIG. 4).Belt 52 is wrapped around idler pulley 51 and engages the upper ply ofthe garment section, and belt 26 is wrapped around pulley 22 and engagesthe lower ply. A prepuller and a post puller have been added to improvehandling of the fabric through the ironing mechanism. The prepullerutilizes feed members 333 and 334 to draw the fabric after it leaves thesewing machine and before engagement by the main conveying members. Itassists in overcoming any tendency to wander during the subsequentironing operation of the line of stitching between the opened free plyedges.

The prepuller The constructional details which follow also apply tomember 334. Referring to FIG. 9, member 333 is a disc having a somewhatlarger diameter than pulley 51 and a largecentral bore 333a whichsurrounds hub 51A. A series of spaced openings 333b are disposed aboutthe central bore. A corresponding series of cylindrical magnetic slugs3330 are press fitted into openings 333b.

Pulley 51 is made of a magnetic material such as iron and is providedwith flat face 51b. Slugs 333c project slightly beyond a similar flatface 333d of disc 333 to reduce frictional engagement between the flatfaces when member 333 is coupled with pulley 51. Since the slugs aremagnetically attracted to face 51b of the pulley, disc 333 becomesattached to the pulley and rotates with it. The clearance between hub51a and bore 333a permits the disc to slip in any direction across face51b until restrained by contact of the wall of the bore with the hub andcontact of the tire 331 on the periphery of the disc with members 186and 236 through the fabric being fed.

As indicated in FIG. 10, the periphery of disc 333 is made up of astraight section 333e and a slightly tapered section 333 both of whichare surrounded by the tire. The tire is made of material such as amember of the rubber family, which will provide good frictionalengagement with all types of fabrics.

Because the disc has a larger diameter than the pulley, as the discrotates with the pulley, its periphery tries to go faster than theperiphery of the pulley. This results in an action by which tire 331 isthrust against the fabric with considerable pressure which produces goodfeeding engagement between the tire and fabric. Although the entire disccan be displaced as necessary to accommodate any bumps, as it rotates italways tends to come back into engagement with the fabric after passageof bumps.

In order for the free ply edges to be opened right up to the line ofstitching, they must negotiate the complex slopes on both faces ofportion 236 of the separator which are part of the contoured surface237a which effects the eventual opening up of the edges as shown inFIGS. 19 and 20. These slopes increase laterally to the right as viewedin FIG. 17 and also to the rear as viewed in FIG. 8. the rearwardlymoving fabric resists transverse movement across these slopes which isnecessary for full opening up. Unlike the other portions of the fabricplies which are wrapped around the buck and which are pulledtransversely in the opposite direction by the action of the large drivewheels such as 141 and 145 in FIG. 20, the free ply edges cannot bepulled transversely to bring about the desired full opening up.

A transverse pushing vector is therefore provided in the rearward feedaction by putting a slight taper on the peripheries of the discs.Referring to FIG. 10, it can be seen that the rotational speed of apoint on the line of junction between portions 333e and 333 is greaterthan that of a point on a line at the right edge of portion 333f becauseof the difference in diameter. This differential in speed causes thefabric passing under these respective portions of the periphery totravel at different rates which skews the right side of the free plyedges to the right as the ply edges move rearwardly, and this causes thefree ply edges to ride up the slopes until the stitching between theplies is restrained by contact with edge 236a. This transverse pushingvector works in conjunction with the close positioning of edges 186a ofthe buck and 236a of the separator previously mentioned to effect fullopening of the free ply edges right up to the stitching .just prior toengagement by the metal and buck belts.

Referring to FIG. 17, feeding of the plies by the discs is effected onthe line of stitching joining the plies. Since this line of stitching isconfined in a horizontal plane between edges 186a and 236a, and held inthe slot or track formed between these edges in a vertical plane by thepressures applied to the top ply by disc 333 initially and on the bottomply by disc 334 a little later, the stitchline is retained in correctrelation so that when the fabric moves rearwardly to open up the freeply edges, the stitchline between the open free edges will be alignedwith the horizontal centerline of buck belt 198. This results in anironed scam in which the plies are in true butt relation without anyoverlap either upwardly or downwardly.

Another aspect of the prefeeding of the fabric plies is treated below inconjunction with the traction reducing arrangement.

Belt takeup Referring to FIG. 3, as in the parent case, pulley 51rotates on shaft 49 carried by arm 47 supported from shaft 44 which isjournalled in support 43. In order to provide a takeup arrangement forbelt 52, new arm 47a is attached to shaft 44 in place of arm 47. The newarm is provided with an internal, longitudinally extending slot (seeFIG. 4) in which arm 47 is fitted and in which it can be shifted asrequired to tighten belt 52. Tightening bolt 47b clamps arm 47 inadjusted position to arm 47a.

Traction reducing arrangement The portions of the fabric plies whichbecome wrapped around the buck are pulled transversely by the action ofthe large drive rollers, and the extent of this transverse component isdetermined by the angling of the drive rollers which can be adjusted tosuit the needs of various fabrics. The transverse vector in the oppositedirection in the free ply edges provided as mentioned above to effectfull opening of the plies right up to the stitching, is produced by thetaper on the peripheries of discs 333 and 334. Obviously this vector ismuch less effective than that of the large drive rollers which operaterearwardly of the tapered discs, but whose effect is reflected throughthe continuity of the fabric to the portion which passes under belt 52in the area in which pulley 51 also drives disc 333.

With some fabrics, it is desirable to lessen the effectiveness of thetraction provided by the forward portion of belt 52 to reduce thisreflected eflect and this is accomplished by an arrangement whichtransfers engagement of the fabric in this area from belt 52 to disc333. Arm 47 supports a depending arm 385 which carries a pair of rollers386 at its lower extremity. The rollers fit in mating grooves of thelower run of belt 52 in a location at which the belt passes over anon-flexible portion of the buck which is supported by belt 26 andpulley 22. This provides a support arrangement for arm 47 which preventspulley 51 from exerting downward pressure through belt 52 to deflectflexible leadon member 186.

As indicated in FIG. 6, arm 47 has a horizontally extending slot 470 andarm 385 has a vertically extending slot 387 which permit both horizontaland vertical shifting of arm 385.

In making a positional adjustment, belt 52 is positioned so thatclearance exists between it and the surface of the fabric and theadjusted position is fixed by tightening bolt 388 and nut 389. Thisclearance is indicated in FIG. 17.

The steam system As mentioned, just before the garment section isbrought into engagement with metal belt and belt 198, a spray of steamis applied to the fabric. Application of steam is desirable to obtainsatisfactory ironing of many

